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Peak Komsomol climb,
4376m, Kazakhstan

Mountaineering trip to one of the most iconic peaks you can see from every part of Almaty city

  • 2 days
    From Almaty to Almaty
    From June to August

  • 4376 meters
    The height of the peak
  • max 2 persons per guide
    Working in small group for safety

  • $450
    Price per person in a group of 2

Peak Komsomol was climbed for the first time on the 17th of July 1930 by a group of mountaineers from Almaty and was called Almaatinskiy peak. Since then the name of the peak was changed several times Komsomol (after a mass ascent in 1935) - Nursultan (1997) - Almatinskiy (2023), but here we will use the name that the peak had for the longest period.

This is a real mountaineering trip, when you will go through the glaciers and moraines, climb rocky ridges and experience the unique beauty of local mountains.

Day by day program
Day 1
Meeting in Almaty. Transfer to Shymbulak ski resort, taking a skilift to Talgar pass 3200m. Hiking to the top of Shymbulachka peak (3450m).
Staying overnight in a traditional nomadic Yurt (3200m).

Day 2
Summit day. Early start of the day (around 4 in the morning). The route goes over the moraines and ice of Bogdanovich glacier till Komsomol pass. From there we start to climb the ridge of the peak.
After the summit we go all the way down to Almaty.

The schedule can be changed due to safety, weather and group conditions.

Accommodation
Shared room in the Yurt. Breakfast and dinner. If we are far away from the hut (on a acclimatization hike, or climbing the peak) - we are going to have some pocket food.

Please inform if you have any food allergies or preferences (vegan, vegetarian, etc.)

Difficulty and required physical conditions
Difficulty: Medium-hard.

The program requires good physical conditions.
The ascent from the Yurt to the peak is almost 1200 vertical meters at the altitude 3200 - 4400m above sea level.
During the program there are the parts of the route that are going through steep slopes with loose rocks, ice and slabs.

Required equipment
- Backpack.
- Mountaineering boots (at least strong trekking boots crampon-compatible).
- Warm clothing (layering).
- Rain jacket with hood.
- Gloves (2 pairs).
- Rain pants.
- Hat/headband.
- Sun hat.
- Good sunglasses.
- Sunscreen/lip balm.
- Emergency blanket.
- Telescopic hiking poles.
- Headlamp.
- Toiletries.
- Sleeping bag.
- Spare clothes.
- Earplugs (possibly).
- Blister plasters (possibly).
- Personal medication.
- Camera (possibly).
- Cash for personal expenses, e.g., dinner at the Yurt and drinks.
- Thermos, bottle.
- Pocket knife.

- Crampons (that can be used with your boots).
- Ice axe.
- Harness.
- Helmet.
- 3 carabiners with safety lock, at least one of which is pear-shaped (suitable for HMS belaying).
- 1 sling (120 cm).
- Short and long pieces of cord (150 cm & 5 m, Ø 5-6mm each).
- Rappel device.

Please note: Bring only a few, but the right things! You will carry all the necessary materials with you.
Price per person
450$
in a group of 2 participants.

The Price includes:
- All planning and organization.
- Transfer by car Almaty-Shymbulak skiresort and back.
- Lift tickets.
- Overnight stays in a Yurt.
- Breakfast and pocket food for the route.
- Guidance and training by qualified mountain guide.

Not in the price:
- Personal insurance (should include mountaineering and helicopter rescue).
- Dinner at the Yurt.
- Personal expenses (extra drinks or snacks at the yurt or skiresort).
- Renting of any equipment needed.

The price for a program for 1 person - 750$.

If you are more then two, I will organize a second guide. But in any case there should not be not more then 2 participants for a guide.
If you are ready to join the program please message me on tatiana@baskova.guide or use any other messenger you like.
TATIANA BASKOVA

IFMGA aspirant guide
KMGA ski guide
Kazakhstan / Kyrgyzstan
+7 775 500 6443


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